First Modded Computer

oh Marine was trying to speed up the dl process by overclocking?
LOL!

Where's a good place I can get a retail Radeon 9700 PRO? The places I have in mind are NewEgg and CompUSA (with the 6 or 12 months no interest).

Johnny, can you tell me where you got the UV sensitive mesh covering your wires and the polished silver biohazard grills?

Also, how did you get the mesh and heatshrink over the connectors?

Edit: Ok, I looked back at some of your posts and read you ordered from Jab-tech.

What sizes of mesh did you use? Did you use both 1/4 and 1/2 inch or just 1/4 for all of it?

[Jason425]

you're fine with that stock hsf... i went from 100 to 150 fsb.. (max for board) and i'm cool as ice.. well kinda.. idle right now i'm 32c, but it gets to about 50 i think on the hottest occasions

um no i wasn't talking about turing up the fsb for downloading.lol that doesn't make any sense.and also i use kazaa lite but i didn't put that in cause i didn't know what he would prefer.and i don't turn my fsb up in my bios cause that isn't in my bios.also i knew thats what download accelerator plus does but the thing is if you can get faster downloads from doing that there is nothing wrong with doing that because it works.

CiKoTic, I got the mirrored polish grill at Jab-Tech.com. Right now they only have 80 mm fan grill. And the neon yellow cable sleeving, I got at Performance-pcs.com. When you order from them, tell them I (Johnny Dao) recommended you. The owner there, Henry, MIGHT give you some kind of break. The power supply was pre-sleeved by Performance-pcs.com and I did all the rest myself, such as the fan wires, case wires ana any other wires that I could have possibly sleeve.

Now getting the sleeving on can be a bitch. You have to take off the connector and put them back on after you finish sleeving and shrink wrapping. Taking the connectors off is very difficult unless you really know what your doing. I used a threading needle to do the job. I wouldn't recommend using it unless you really know where your poking at. You can check out (www.action-electronics.com/molex.htm) and buy a molex extractor to do all your de-pinning. When you de-pin, make sure you remember exactly the order that it was in. The size of sleeving that I use are the 1/8" and 1/4". The 1/8" should be used for wires no more than four. I bought a package of shrink wrap at Radio Shack. I recommend buying it there because the package has various size shrink wraps. Instead of buying a heat gun, I just use a typical hair dryer. Pretty getto huh??

Thanks for the info JD.

The mesh sleeving your using.. is it UV sensitive or is it the neon? And am I correct in assuming you used the 1/8 for things like fan connectors and the 1/4 for between the power suppy and molex connectors?

I've got a Xaser III on order and I think I'm going to take my time with it and do some of the things you've done.

What you've done is a superb example of a well thought out and executed case mod. I've sat and studied your pictures hoping I can get close to the level of detail you've done. You should consider writing a article on it.

Also, I'm considering getting a molex pin extractor but I'm unsure which to buy. Would I need the one for .062 Pins or the one for .093 Pins?

The mesh sleeving are all neon yellow. The IDE cables are UV sensitive with a silver mesh. Usually the IDE cables come in silver or copper mesh. All the sleeving on the power supply were all done by Performance-pcs. After buying the power supply and seeing how it was one I've could have easily done it myself if I took the the. That way I've could of gotten a power supply for far better price. It looks like Performance-pcs. used 1/4" and 3/4" sleeving. If you want to do ALL the other sleevings in the case, you would need probably 20ft. of 1/8" and 10ft. of 1/4" that's not including the wires on the PSU.

If you notice, all the sleevings are bright. I have four 12" cold cathodes. That's right four. You can see where I put two of them, but the other two are well hidden at the top of the case. If you look at the picture of the PSU with the biohazard grill, you can actually get a glimse of the cold cathode light purple. I put those there so the top half of the case would also react to the UV.

The most important thing is wire management. This case was great to use. The side pane on the MOBO side comes off very easy, just like the window side. That's where I ran all the power cables including the MOBO cable. Here's a pic.of the other side of the case. There's even room for two of my cold cathode's inverters. If you look closely to the pics. you can see that I also ran my exhaust, 12V power and the 4" cold cathodes wire in the back. Of course the wires aren't long enough to begin with. That's where you got to do some cutting and splicing to make your wires longer.

Back to your question. For the molex extractor, I honestly don't know which to use. But if you call the company up and tell them that you want to extract some molex pins from a Computer PSU they'll know which one you need. I did call them before, cause I was planning to buy crimpers, extractor, and more molex pins. But the cost was run me $60-70. I hope this helps on how to build your unit. Let me know if you run across any problems or if you need some help. I like to see your final mod.

Again, thanks for the info JD.

My Xaser III is on its way and I was thinking I would keep to the silver and red motif. Red UV sinsitive mesh from jab-tech should look pretty cool but I'm unsure about the IDE cables. The only UV sensitive color I can find them in is blue. Not sure how that would look with everything else being red.

Red and silver motif sounds good.. Here what I would recommend.. Use all red sleeving, four 12" red cold cathodes, red quadLED fan and for the IDE cables, just buy clear copper... Don't get the UV Cable.. It won't do any good if your not running any blacklight...